Fragrance is a combination of different chemicals both natural and synthetic that give perfume, cologne and other scented products their distinct scent. Scent, on the other hand, refers to the natural smell of a flower or plant. Many companies use the word “fragrance” to mask the fact that their product contains a combination of chemical ingredients that may be sourced from both natural and synthetic raw materials. The majority of fragrance ingredients are considered trade secrets and are not listed on the label of perfume, cologne or other scented cosmetic products. Instead, legislations like the EU’s Regulation EC 1223/2009 and the US FDA Code of Federal Regulations Title 21 allow manufacturers to simply list the word “fragrance” (EU) or “flavor” (US) which may hide tens or hundreds of individual fragrance chemicals.
Fragrance can be classified according to three structural parts: the top note is the refreshing, volatile odour that is perceived instantly; the middle or body note adds fullness and character; and the base note provides lasting impression. In addition, fragrance can be further divided into a number of categories based on one or more identifiable dominant odours including single floral, floral bouquet, oriental, woody, musky, herbal, and mossy.
Most of the perfume ingredients that are used today have been tested and assessed for safety by a comprehensive system established by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). However, some of these chemicals are associated with serious health problems including toxicity, reproductive and developmental harm and allergic reactions, and many are linked to skin sensitivities. For this reason, some skincare companies are opting to not include any “fragrance” at all in their products and instead list every ingredient separately including those that are known skin allergens.