How to Bathe Your Dog: A Step-by-Step Bath and Brush Routine

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Bath time doesn’t have to be a wrestling match. With the right setup and a simple routine, most dogs learn to tolerate a bath, and some even enjoy it. This guide covers how often to bathe your dog, what you need, a step-by-step routine from brushing to drying, and how to help a nervous dog relax.

How often should you bathe your dog?

There’s no single answer. Many dogs do well with a bath every four to eight weeks, or whenever they’re dirty or smelly. A few things change that:

• Coat type: oily-coated breeds may need more frequent baths, while many double-coated breeds need fewer, with regular brushing in between.
• Lifestyle: a dog who swims in ponds or rolls in mud will need more baths than a couch companion.
• Skin conditions: if your vet has prescribed a medicated shampoo, follow their schedule exactly.

Bathing too often can dry out the skin. If your dog’s skin looks flaky, red or itchy, or you notice a strong smell that returns quickly after a bath, ask your vet. These can be signs of an allergy or skin infection that a bath won’t fix.

What you need

Gather everything before you start, so you never have to leave a wet dog in the tub:

• A dog shampoo (human shampoo isn’t made for a dog’s skin)
• A non-slip mat for the tub or shower floor
• A handheld sprayer, jug or cup for rinsing
• Several absorbent towels
• A brush or comb that suits your dog’s coat
• High-value treats, or a lick mat with something tasty on it
• Cotton balls or a damp cloth for wiping around the face

Step-by-step: how to bathe your dog

1. Brush first. Brush out loose hair, tangles and mats before the bath. Water tightens mats and makes them much harder to remove.
2. Get the water right. Use lukewarm water, comfortable on the inside of your wrist. Water that’s too hot or cold is unpleasant and can stress your dog.
3. Wet the coat thoroughly. Start at the neck and work back and down, keeping water away from the eyes, ears and nose. Thick coats take longer than you’d think to soak through.
4. Lather. Massage shampoo into the coat down to the skin, following the label. Work from the neck to the tail, then the legs and paws.
5. Wash the face carefully. Use a damp cloth around the eyes and muzzle rather than pouring water over the head.
6. Rinse, then rinse again. Leftover shampoo can irritate skin. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear and the coat no longer feels slippery.
7. Condition if needed. Long or curly coats often benefit from a dog conditioner to make brushing easier.
8. Towel dry. Squeeze water out of the coat and pat dry with towels. Let your dog shake (stand back).
9. Finish drying. Air dry in a warm room, or use a dryer on a cool or low setting held well away from the skin. Never leave a dog in a cage dryer unattended.
10. Brush again once the coat is dry, and finish with praise and a treat.

Ears, nails and teeth

Bath day is a good time to check the rest of your dog:

• Ears: wipe the outer ear with a cotton ball and a vet-approved ear cleaner. Don’t push anything into the ear canal. Redness, odor or head shaking are reasons to see your vet.
• Nails: nails are softer after a bath, so it’s a good time to trim. If you can hear them click on the floor, they’re too long. Trim small amounts and avoid the pink quick.
• Teeth: many vets recommend daily tooth brushing with a dog toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste, which can contain xylitol.

Brushing by coat type

Regular brushing between baths keeps the coat clean, spreads natural oils and cuts down on shedding:

• Short, smooth coats: a rubber curry brush or bristle brush once a week.
• Double coats: an undercoat rake and slicker brush a few times a week, more during shedding season. Don’t shave a double-coated dog without talking to a groomer or vet first; the coat helps protect against heat and sun.
• Long or silky coats: a pin brush and comb several times a week, working through to the skin.
• Curly coats: a slicker brush and comb several times a week, plus professional grooming every six to eight weeks for many dogs.

Helping a dog who hates baths

• Practice getting in and out of the dry tub with treats before you add water.
• Put a non-slip mat down. Slipping is a big source of fear.
• Stick a lick mat spread with something tasty to the tub wall so your dog has something to focus on.
• Keep sessions short and calm, and stop on a good note.
• For very fearful dogs, consider a professional groomer or ask your vet about other options.

Reading your dog’s stress signals (lip licking, yawning, a tucked tail) helps you know when to slow down. Our guide to understanding dog behavior explains them. Bath time is also part of a bigger routine; see our dog care basics.

Our picks for bath day

For a calmer bath

The Lighthouse eMat Enrichment Lick Mat by SodaPup has suction cups that stick to tile, glass and tub walls. Spread it with peanut butter (xylitol-free), yogurt or wet food, and it keeps your dog busy while you wash. It’s made in the USA from FDA-compliant, BPA-free TPE and is top-rack dishwasher safe.

For a fresh finish

The Jeffers Pet Cologne with Coat Conditioner is a soap-free spray that adds a light scent and conditions the coat between baths. Skip it on irritated or broken skin.

For the clean-up

The BLACKLINE Pet Hair Brush has rubber bristles that lift shed hair from carpets, sofas and car seats after a big brushing session. It’s made for upholstery, not for brushing your dog.

FAQ

Can I use baby shampoo on my dog?

It’s better to use a shampoo made for dogs. If you’ve run out, a mild, unscented baby shampoo is less harsh than most human shampoos, but don’t make it a habit.

Should I bathe my dog after a road trip?

If your dog got muddy at rest stops or rolled in something on the way, yes. Otherwise a good brushing is often enough. Our road trip checklist covers what to pack for the car.

How do I get rid of the wet dog smell?

Dry your dog completely, right down to the skin, especially in thick coats. Lingering odor after a bath can be a sign of a skin or ear problem, so mention it to your vet.